Overlanding Senegal in a Jeep Rubicon: A Road Trip Through West Africa

Crossing into Senegal from Mauritania turned out to be one of the easiest border experiences we’ve had on this trip. If you’re planning the same route, I’ve put together a detailed guide covering everything you need to know about overlanding from Mauritania to Senegal, including border procedures, documents, and tips. On the ground, the process was smooth from start to finish—no corruption, no hassle—just friendly, welcoming officials on both sides. In fact, the atmosphere was so relaxed and good-humored that I even received two lighthearted marriage proposals (one on each side of the border). Not having a carnet de passages for our Jeep wasn’t an issue either, which made the entire crossing even more straightforward.

An easy border crossing always makes those first miles in a new country feel that much better, and Senegal delivered exactly that. This wasn’t our first time here—we’d visited years ago while backpacking through West Africa—but arriving overland this time, in our own vehicle, brought a completely different perspective.

First Stop: Senegal’s Coastal Zebra Bar Campsite

This time around, we decided to skip Saint-Louis, the well-known colonial city in northern Senegal. As nice as it is, we’d already explored it on a previous trip, and this time we weren’t too keen on dealing with the traffic or city driving. Instead, we headed straight for the coast to one of the most popular stops for overlanders in Senegal; Zebra Bar. It’s a large beachfront campsite with a laid-back restaurant and bar, decent toilets and showers, and direct access to a sandy beach—everything you need for an easy stopover on a West Africa overland route. We only stayed one night, though, because the next morning we had to make a quick push toward Dakar.

For reasons that are still a bit unclear to us, the Senegalese temporary import permit system makes it tricky for overlanders to properly explore the northern part of the country. Every vehicle entering Senegal—whether or not you have a carnet de passages—is only given a 48-hour temporary import permit, which must be renewed in Dakar. That essentially gives you just two days to travel from the Mauritania border to the capital, leaving very little time to slow down and enjoy the region.

There is a workaround: you can pay around €250 (or sometimes as little as €50 if you split the cost with other overlanders) to have a driver go to Dakar on your behalf and arrange the extension. For us, that wasn’t a route we wanted to take, so we hit the road ourselves and headed for Dakar—unaware at the time that it would be a city we’d end up returning to a few more times than planned.

To make the drive more manageable, we split the journey over two days and spent a night at Lac Rose, one of Senegal’s most famous natural landmarks, known for its high salt content and the pink hue the lake sometimes takes on during the dry season. We found a relaxed lakeside hotel that welcomes overlanders, making it a perfect, low-key stop before continuing on to the capital.

Driving to Dakar: Navigating Senegal’s Capital Traffic

The next morning, we were up before sunrise and on the road to Dakar, hoping to beat the traffic—but we rolled in right at peak rush hour. Driving through the city was intense. Brett had his hands full trying to keep an eye on all four corners of the Jeep while cars and motorbikes squeezed in from every direction. Traffic rules felt more like suggestions, and the whole experience quickly turned into a high-alert drive.

Getting the temporary import permit extension in Dakar was actually straightforward—but the city still kept us there longer than expected. After sorting the paperwork, we decided to take advantage of being in the capital and get an oil change done before continuing our overland journey through Senegal.

Leaving Dakar turned out to be just as challenging as entering it. We ended up taking the non-toll road south toward Somone, and the traffic was relentless. Between the constant flow of cars, weaving motorcycles, and local minibuses driving like they were in a demolition derby, it was exhausting. Brett stayed fully focused the entire time, doing everything he could to avoid any scratches or close calls. After about three hours of navigating the chaos, we finally made it to Somone—though this part was on us. We hadn’t realized there was a toll road option and had accidentally left Google Maps set to “avoid tolls,” which would have made the drive significantly easier.

Exploring Somone: Relaxed Beach Town Vibes

Somone turned out to be a great place to slow things down. It’s a small coastal town with laid-back vibes, a beautiful beach, and a noticeable expat community. We stayed a couple of nights at a really nice, small campsite/hotel called Sleeping Camel, run by Phil (American) and Matt (Australian). They also organize popular moped tours across West Africa, and Phil is the voice behind the well-known overlanding blog Scoop West Africa.

While we were there, we met another couple overlanding their way down to South Africa. They weren’t planning to come back up the East Coast, but with routes like these, you never know—there’s always a chance we might cross paths again somewhere further down the road.

Stocking Up for Rural Senegal: Sully and Niokolo-Koba National Park

We left Somone and headed east, making a quick stop at a Carrefour supermarket in Saly to stock up on food before venturing into more rural parts of Senegal. Once we left the coast behind, the drive became really enjoyable—quiet roads, small villages, and locals waving as we passed through. It felt like the kind of overland travel we love, slow and connected to the places we move through.

That said, stopping along the way wasn’t always easy. Any time we pulled over, we were quickly surrounded by groups of kids asking for money. In some cases, they would reach for anything left outside the vehicle, even trying door handles. After a few of these encounters, it started to feel a bit overwhelming and stressful, especially when all we wanted was a quick break.

We continued east toward Niokolo-Koba National Park, one of Senegal’s largest and most important wildlife reserves, breaking up the journey with a night stop about halfway there. The only real option in the area was a Hebergement parking lot that welcomes overlanders-campement de chasse Bambouk. That evening, we met a couple of guys from England—Cambridge and Oxford graduates—who had just completed part of the Paris-Dakar Rally route and were making their way back to Europe. Always the kind of unexpected roadside connection that makes overland travel so memorable.

After that, we continued on toward Niokolo-Koba National Park. The tarmac road was in decent condition, and for a stretch, it actually cuts straight through the park—a protected forestry area where we spotted a few monkeys along the way. It was a nice drive, but we decided not to explore the park further. With a long overland journey ahead of us, we knew we’d be visiting other national parks in Africa where wildlife sightings are more guaranteed.

Overlanding Along the Gambian River

That night, we pulled into one of our favorite camps of the trip. Not because of the facilities—the camp itself was very simple, with an open-air toilet and shower and a rustic but welcoming common area—but because of the setting. It sits right on a bluff overlooking the Gambia River, with sweeping views across the water. It’s one of those places where you arrive and immediately know you’ll want to stay longer.

We ended up spending a couple of days there, doing very little besides soaking in the view and enjoying the slower pace.

When we finally moved on, the plan was to head to Dindefelo and track chimpanzees. The drive there was beautiful—a quiet dirt track winding through small villages and rural landscapes. But once we arrived, we decided to skip the trek. The chimpanzee group in the area is small, and sightings aren’t guaranteed. Having tracked chimps before elsewhere in Africa, we figured we’d rather wait for a place where we’d have a better chance of actually seeing them.

Unexpected Route Changes: Avoiding the Gambia Border Without a Carnet

From here, we planned to take a rural track toward the Gambia border,but just as we were heading that way, I double-checked whether a carnet de passages was required for our Jeep—and, of course, it was. Quick course correction: without a carnet, we couldn’t cross Gambia. Instead, we rerouted along the Senegalese coast to a small village called Ndangane, where we found a charming, budget-friendly overland campsite called Cœur Phil-Harmonie, run by a friendly French lady—the cheapest we’d paid anywhere in the country.

We settled in, enjoying a quiet evening and dinner, when Brett received a call from his family. His dad, who had been sick but stable for a long time, had suddenly worsened. We knew we needed to get home fast. At first light the next morning, we left the campsite and drove all day back to the same stopover where we had met the Cambridge and Oxford graduates. The following day, we pushed on to Dakar, hoping to extend our temporary vehicle import permit before it expired so I could stay with the Jeep for another 15 days while Brett returned to the USA.

Unfortunately, our plan didn’t work. The official at the Douane office explained it was impossible to extend the permit before the expiration date. I would need to go to Kaolack to renew it while Brett was away.

Relaxing While Waiting: Life at Sleeping Camel Campsite

With no time to waste, we drove back to the coast and Somone, deciding that Phil’s campsite was the safest and most convenient overland stop in Senegal for me to stay with the Jeep. As soon as we arrived, Brett booked his one-way flight, and early the next morning, he left for the USA.

A few days before Brett left, we decided to get a Carnet de Passages, knowing that later in our West Africa overland journey we would eventually hit a roadblock—like Ghana—where it’s either impossible or extremely expensive to enter without one. Beyond that, having a carnet makes overlanding in West Africa much smoother at borders, and in my experience, it also reduces the chances of running into unofficial fees or corruption. We arranged the carnet for all the West African countries that require it, had it shipped to Brett’s parents’ house, and he brought it back when he returned. If you’re planning your own trip and want to get a carnet, we’ve written a detailed guide on that.

I spent the next 18 days at Sleeping Camel, and it turned out to be one of the most comfortable stops of the entire Senegal overland trip. I stayed in one of their rooms with an en-suite bathroom and air conditioning—it was a real treat after long days on the road. Everyone in charge—Phil, Matt, and Mustafá—was incredibly kind and welcoming. They even arranged a driver to take Brett to the airport and to get me to Kaolack to extend the Jeep’s temporary import permit.

During my stay, I could cook my own meals in their kitchen, take walks into town, and meet other overlanders passing through Senegal. I loved watching Mustafá perform traditional dances, and I always felt safe, secure, and truly at home. Sleeping Camel it’s a hub for overlanders, a place to connect, recharge, and soak in local culture while planning the next leg of your journey.

Unfortunately, Brett’s dad passed away just a few days after he arrived in the USA. He stayed for two weeks to attend the funeral and help his mother get everything organized. When it was finally time for him to return, Phil arranged a driver to take me to the airport to pick him up.

Handling Bureaucracy in Dakar: Switching to a Carnet de Passages and Getting Visas

As soon as we got back to Sleeping Camel and Brett had taken a quick shower, we hit the road. We were in a tricky situation: our temporary import permit only had two days left, and this was the final extension allowed. We essentially had two complicated options. The first was to drive nonstop for the next two days all the way around Gambia, aiming to reach the Guinea-Bissau border before the permit expired. That would have been extremely challenging. Starting from Dakar, it meant a long, exhausting drive, skipping Gambia entirely, and carefully timing our arrival in Ziguinchor to secure our Guinea-Bissau visas—without any margin for error.

The second option was to head to Kaolack, to the Douane office where I had gotten my last extension, and ask them to cancel the temporary import permit so we could switch to using our Carnet de Passages instead. At the time, this seemed like the safer and more practical choice. We drove to Kaolack, only to discover that the friendly Douane officials couldn’t stamp our carnet. This procedure isn’t handled by their office—it’s done at a specialized bureau instead. With that option off the table, our only real choice was to make the drive to Dakar to complete the switch from the passavant to the carnet.

We briefly considered other workarounds, like crossing into Gambia on the passavant and returning to Senegal with the carnet, but the Douane officials weren’t certain this could be done, since they had never encountered that situation before. Despite the uncertainty, they were extremely helpful. They even called the bureau in Dakar to confirm that heading there was indeed our best option.

So, we set off immediately for Dakar. It quickly became clear we wouldn’t reach the city before the office closed. We drove as far as we could before sunset and set up camp at the last overland-friendly campsite on the route—our closest option before the city.

The next morning, we left camp before sunrise, still navigating the dark streets and once again threading through Dakar’s rush hour. Despite the chaos, we arrived at the Bureau just minutes before they opened. Luckily, the officials already knew about us, so we didn’t have to explain why we had entered Senegal on a temporary import permit and now, 31 days later, needed to switch to a Carnet de Passages. The process was fast and straightforward. Both officials were friendly and efficient—they stamped our carnet, kept the old passavant, and after a small payment, we were celebrating outside the building. With that done, we were officially free to continue overlanding Senegal and to enter Gambia without worry.

Since it was still early, we decided to stop by the embassies for Guinea-Bissau and Gambia visas. In the end, we opted against getting the Guinea Bissau visa because it was twice the price at that location. However, we were glad we had already secured our Guinea Conakry visa ahead of time—it was quick, easy, and stress-free.

South Senegal Overland Route: Gambia Border Crossing and Ziguinchor Travel

Now, fully sorted and without any travel stress, we headed back down the road—the very road where Brett had received that phone call from his family weeks earlier. By this point, we’d traveled this route so many times that we were ready to push south as far as possible, eager to keep exploring Senegal and beyond.

By this point, Brett was completely exhausted. Between the stress of his dad passing, handling the aftermath and supporting his mother, and the long return to Africa, he desperately needed a break. We took a couple of days off in a small village, hoping to relax. I say hoping because the heat was intense—the days were so scorching that we barely wanted to move, let alone explore.

Eventually, it was time to keep moving, and finally, we were headed to an area of Senegal we’d never visited before—something that had us genuinely excited. We drove to a small riverside village and stayed at a basic hotel that allowed overlanders to camp in their parking lot. The breeze from the river was a welcome relief from the relentless heat, making the stop feel immediately refreshing. Since it was such a quaint place, we went for a stroll around the village, got some copies of our Guinea visas, and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing at the hotel.

The next day was finally time to cross into Gambia— After exploring Gambia, we crossed back into Senegal through the southern border and made our way to Ziguinchor to get our Guinea-Bissau visas. The drive through this region was a highlight—the scenery transformed into lush mangroves and vibrant green vegetation, with views that could have been plucked straight from an African postcard.

Once in Ziguinchor, we went straight to the consulate. In less than 10 minutes, we had our visas stamped—a record for ease compared to any other African visa we’d gotten so far. After that, we stopped at Auchan supermarket to restock supplies. In the parking lot, we met a friendly young Dutch couple also overlanding all the way down to South Africa. It was great to chat and exchange contacts, a reminder of how small the overlanding community feels even across such long distances.

Medical Emergency in Senegal: Brett’s Severe Allergic Reaction

We spent the night at a lovely camp “Camping Casamance”, run by Pape, a genuinely kind and helpful guy. Little did we know this would become a temporary home for us. The next day, Brett woke up with what we thought were simple bug bites around his feet and ankles. By the afternoon, he was covered in hives. To make matters worse, before we realized what was happening, he had taken his daily dose of Atovaquone/Proguanil (commonly known by the brand name Malarone), that usually helps prevent contracting malaria.

That evening, Brett’s symptoms worsened dramatically, and we rushed to the ER at Hôpital de la Paix. The doctor administered a shot of hydrocortisone, and after a couple of hours, Brett was discharged with a prescription for a cream to soothe the hives.

That night, I reached out to a friend whose brother is a doctor in the US. By the time he called back, we were back at the campsite. Brett’s symptoms had not improved—though thankfully his face, lips, and tongue weren’t swollen, and he had no trouble breathing. The doctor recommended we start Benadryl first thing in the morning, which became our plan.

But the night was long and painful. Brett’s limbs ached so badly he could barely sleep. By early morning, his lips, eyes, hands, and feet were swollen, and panic set in. We rushed back to the ER, hoping the same physician was still on duty. Luckily, he was. I begged him to administer epinephrine, but he insisted Brett first see the dermatologist. After a quick consultation, they agreed. I was asked to leave the room, my heart hammering in my chest as I watched Brett through the window.

Within seconds of administering the adrenaline shot, Brett became extremely pale and experienced difficulty breathing. It appeared to be a reaction to the injection. I ran back inside to hold his hand as color slowly returned to his face, the adrenaline shot worked almost instantly, some of the hives began to fade. a few minutes later, He was moved to an observation area, sitting in a reclining chair among other patients while the staff monitored his vitals. When the hives flared up again, the dermatologist administered a second shot, and Brett had the same immediate, intense reaction. Despite her recommendation to keep him overnight, Brett politely declined. We promised we’d return immediately if anything worsened—and truthfully, we didn’t want to take a bed from a local in need.

After a final dose of hydrocortisone and a few more hours of monitoring, Brett was discharged with a prescription for medications and instructions for a follow-up in three days. The care we received at Hôpital de la Paix was outstanding. Every step of the process was well-organized: treatment was logged in a small hospital diary, medications were dispensed on prescription at the onsite pharmacy, and staff meticulously cleaned each observation area after a patient left. The building itself, while old, had charm; it was orderly, quiet, and clean by local standards. From security guards to nurses and doctors, everyone treated us with kindness and professionalism. We were incredibly fortunate that this medical emergency happened in a mid-sized Senegalese town with such competent infrastructure.

Back at camp, we moved to a more comfortable room with an en-suite bathroom and air conditioning so Brett could rest properly. Over the next days, he slowly recovered, confirming with my friend’s brother that the prescribed treatment was appropriate. By the time of his post-op check, he was doing very well. The doctor recommended a follow-up in a few weeks, but we explained we would continue on our overland journey.

Before we could move on, a new challenge arose: our dual batteries were not charging and were losing power rapidly. Initially, we feared we’d need replacements—an incredibly difficult task to arrange in rural West Africa. After contacting Genesis, he reassured us the readings were normal. Monitoring them closely over the next few days, we finally saw stable, consistent performance.

With Brett finally feeling well and our Jeep running reliably, we woke early and set off for the border. Within an hour, we crossed into a new country: Guinea-Bissau.

Senegal had been full of unexpected turns—some stressful, some challenging—but in hindsight, we are grateful they happened here. With its friendly, helpful locals, solid infrastructure, and beautiful landscapes, Senegal proved to be a country that welcomed us back after all these years. We left feeling enriched by our experiences, glad we returned, and eager for the next chapter of our West Africa overland adventure.